We finish our final trip on the ICW, traveling from Wilmington NC to Norfolk VA. Most of the towns were still in winter hibernation mode, but we still enjoyed some of our favorite stop. We also added a new stop in Washington NC, where our good friends from Inconceivable hop on board for the final three days to our penultimate destination of Norfolk VA.
Time to wrap up the Farewell Tour! Traveling north on our eighth and final trip on the ICW, we had left Jacksonville FL Feb 21 and arrived at Holden Beach NC on March 2. That first half of our Farewell Tour had been pretty cold while we covered 481 miles in just seven days. For this second half — it was still cold. And gray. March also means cold fronts marching across the country. For us, this meant constant adjusting for rapidly changing forecasts, with fewer stops and longer travel days on the good days so we could hang out a day or two for a blow to pass. So we stuck to the bigger towns and marinas that we knew well, though we did sneak in one new stop in Little Washington NC.
The highlight was having our good friends from Inconceivable join us onboard for the last few days of travel! Having them turned turned the final stretches into Norfolk from a routine commute to a special finish to our cruising days on See Level.
Wilmington NC
Mar 3-6, 2025
We had stopped in Wilmington in Dec 2023 and it is on the list of one of our favorite cities, so we wanted to spend a few days here on our way north. Mother Nature played right into our plans, with a major storm on the way. Being 20 miles up the Cape Fear River made Wilmington the ideal place to wait out the 30+ mph winds forecast.
It was a short trip from Holden Beach to Wilmington so we could delay enough to let the bright sun melt the thick frost on the decks. Turning up the Cape Fear River at Southport, we began seeing the big commercial vessels, as this is a major shipping port (and hence its major role as a Confederate supply route, with Wilmington being the last port to fall to the Union in the final days of the Civil War). The Carolina wildfires were still raging, and smoke billowed from one nearby. About 8 miles up the river, the ICW turns off the river and continues north through a cut towards Carolina Beach. But we continued up the river another 12 miles, passing through the industrial area with its larger cranes, cargo ships, and tugs.
The USS North Carolina coming into view heralded our arrival in Wilmington. At Port City Marina, they initially wanted to put us in a slip shared with another boat. It looked like it would be a tight fit, and with the winds we knew were coming the following day I wasn’t wild about being that close to another boat. So they moved us to our own slip on a dock that was virtually empty. That would turn out to be a good move.
Wilmington was just as we remembered it – eclectic, historic, actively renovating but maintaining its historical context. Still being the off season it was rather quiet, but we enjoyed walking through the old and historic neighborhoods, down the main street, and of course finding a coffee shop or two. We even got to have dinner at a favorite pizza place with my old college roommate Sharlene and her husband Kevin one night.
As soon as we arrived, we rigged for the high winds that were coming the next day. Out went extra fenders, lines were doubled, and things like flags and anything loose was stowed so it didn’t become a projectile. The morning started out calm enough, but the winds gradually built until it was a gale. We watched unoccupied boats bobbing and swinging on inappropriately slack lines, canvas enclosures flapping and tearing in the wind, and chair cushions going airborne. Fortunately, the marina is in a protected basin so we were spared the full force of the winds and no boats broke their lines, but we had a full afternoon of hearing sailboat rigging singing in harmony with howling gusts before the grand finale of a thunderstorm and torrential rain beat down on the deck. There was even a rarely issued tornado watch, though none materialized that we heard about.
Beaufort NC
Mar 7-8
After two days of excessive winds, we had a one day window to travel before the next front came and did a really long day to get to Beaufort – over 110 miles. The one bugaboo was the dreaded Onslow Bridge at Camp LeJeune. They are building a new bridge, and the schedule for the old bridge opening is erratic and subject to extended (as in days) closures dictated by construction. Dave called the tender at the old bridge the day before, getting a ‘if you’re here between noon and 1 pm we’ll be opening on demand while the construction crew is at lunch,’ so we departed Wilmington at first light to get the 75 miles before noon. I love early morning departures for the beauty of the early morning light. On this morning, there must have been some combination of clouds and conditions I can’t explain that somehow extended that morning glow for a couple hours!
Dave had carefully calculated our speed needed to cover the distance to Onslow by noon. , taking into account that we would be mixing head currents with tail currents as we passed various inlets and tide shifts. But somehow we had a tail current pushing us along most of the way and he had to keep throttling back so we wouldn’t arrive too early. At 1130 we were basically drifting northbound in near-idle. Then at 1145 we hear the New Bridge construction boss telling the Old Bridge tender (the one that told us to be there at noon) that they’ve got a problem with the new bridge and so will have to close it immediately and leave it down. Oh-no-no-no-no-no-NO! Dave gets on the radio and tells them we’re only a mile away. Rather surprisingly, the New Bridge Boss says he’ll wait, Dave kicks it up to speed, and we cruise through both open bridges (they’re only 50 feet apart) at about 11:50, watching the new bridge being lowered literally as soon as we crossed its shadow. Their grace and accommodation was very much appreciated.
The rest of the trip to Beaufort was easy and full of dolphin sightings. It was still off-season at the City Docks, so quiet and not much going on in the normally bustling town. But we had the best entertainment imaginable right on the boat, with an evening dolphin show as an entire pod swam back and forth for about 30 minutes.
We’ve always wanted to get out to Cape Lookout National Seashore, so we took the big open air pontoon boat that is the National Park Service Ferry. With the increased winds it was a choppy 45 minute ride – with a little sea spray thrown in. (We had to wonder exactly what the ferry’s ‘no-go’ criteria were.) They ran the bow of the pontoon boat onto the beach and lowered a ramp for us to get off as if we were storming the beach. We had a couple hours to wander along the shell-laden beach while dodging the wind-driven surf; we could see why it was so famous for shipwrecks. Circling back inland over the dunes, we saw some of the many wild horses who have occupied the island since brought over by the Spanish. (Large deposits of horse manure all around testified to their abundance.)
Washington NC
Mar 9-11
Located up the Pamlico River about 20 miles off the ICW, Little Washington had also been on our list of places we always wanted to visit. On a gray morning, the Neuse River was a little choppy as we came around Oriental, but the winds had yielded to glassy conditions as we left the ICW to cruise up the Pamlico. The sun broke through later, and blue skies welcomed us to the small waterfront city marina.
The town of Washington NC was the first town to be named for George Washington. It was originally called ‘Town at the Forks of the Tar River,’ but that’s rather cumbersome to fit on an address label so I can see why they changed it to Washington. When DC became the nation’s capital, it started being affectionately known as Little Washington to distinguish it from Big Washington. It’s a very charming town, with people greeting us as we passed on the street. There’s wide sidewalks, clean streets, an eclectic mix of shops, and arts venues scattered between the many restaurants. Red historical markers told stories of ghosts, famous residents, and how Roy Rogers rode his horse Trigger up the stairs to the balcony of the vintage town theatre. Giant crab mascots are scattered along the waterfront, colorfully painted to represent local businesses or lore.
Patty and Gary met us here in Little Washington, arriving on one of the nicest days we had seen in a long time. We buddy-boated with them on Inconceivable for a good chunk of the Loop, and they joined us last summer on the Erie Canal. We had been so looking forward to having them join us, and it was as if Mother Nature paused the parade of cold fronts just for them.
Belhaven NC
Mar 12
It was a short, calm trip to Belhaven. Gary sat at the helm with Dave so they could talk about boats and engines and all kinds of technical stuff that I can’t hold a conversation about. Patty and I were first class passengers. Belhaven Marina had these creepy demonic rubber coyotes with amputated feet nailed to pilings to deter birds on their docks, and they scared me. The downtown is about as small as it gets, and we walked the entire town and had lunch all in about 90 minutes. Then it was time to just sit out reading in the marina gazebo, enjoying a beautiful afternoon and picturesque sunset.
Coinjock NC
Mar 13
Taking advantage of a second calm day in the forecast, we headed into the very straight Pungo-Alligator Canal, down the Alligator River, and across the Albemarle Sound. It was cold and gray, and with all the trees and vegetation still in winter dormancy I have to admit that everything looked rather flat and not very pretty. But it was also too early in the season for crabpots so at least we didn’t have those to dodge.
Coinjock is literally just the marina and its restaurant. But it is an ICW institution, mostly because of the prime rib at the marina restaurant. Locals come from all over, and the restaurant was busy even on the cold Monday evening we were there – but none of us had the prime rib.
Norfolk VA
Mar 14-17
Last day of our Farewell Tour, crossing into Virginia as we headed up the North River. Dave had planned the timing of our route perfectly with the bridge schedules – North Landing first, then Centerville.
We pulled in at Atlantic Yacht Basin just before the Great Bridge bridge. Patty and Gary went off to go wander through the boat storage sheds where some beautiful classic boats can be seen, while Dave and I fueled up and met with our boat broker briefly. And then we caught the next bridge opening and entered the lock.
Coming up the North River, it’s mostly undeveloped until you approach Great Bridge. Marsh grasses turn to stumps and trees, and more evergreens line the banks as you approach Great Bridge. After exiting the lock, it suddenly becomes industrial: boatyards with rusted out barges, tugs plying the waters with or without loaded barges, work boats, and various other active and inactive industrial plants. It’s only 12 miles to Norfolk and should have taken us less than two hours, but…
There’s one bridge – Railroad Bridge 7, or RR7 – that is always open unless there is a train coming, in which case it automatically closes. There is no set schedule, and no one to contact. As we had the bridge in our sights – less than a mile away – we heard the automated VHF announcement that the bridge would be closing. We watched it drop down before we could get through. So wait we did, as freight train crawled along. Then an Amtrak sped across, and we expected it to open shortly. Nope. By now we were one of four pleasure craft doing circles. A third long train crept across the bridge. Surely the bridge would open now? Double nope. Soon a bright red caboose came into view as a fourth train made its way in reverse across the bridge. I half expected to see two hobos pumping a handcart next. Finally after almost a 90 minute delay, the mechanical voice crackled on the VHF again finally announcing the bridge was opening.
Soon we were passing the historic Norfolk Naval Shipyard which dates back to 1767, the iconic WWII era hammerhead crane still towering above the waterfront. And then we were pulling into the near empty Waterside Marina in Norfolk – Mile Marker 0 of the ICW, and the termination of See Level’s Farewell Tour.
While the Tour was over for the boat, we humans still had the weekend to enjoy Patty and Gary’s company and show them Norfolk a bit. We walked through the cobblestoned streets of the historic Freemason area. Another night hoofed over to Ghent to see Mickey 17 at the arthouse old Naro Theatre. There was dinner at the rooftop Grain with its great view from high above of the marina (and our boat in it). The Mariners Museum in Newport News with its fantastic exhibit on the Civil War ironclads Monitor and Merrimac and their historic battle was a day trip, with a driveway through of historic Fort Monroe. And there were games of Dominos and long conversations throughout our time with them. We even had the honor of celebrating Gary’s birthday with them.
We will officially be in our Transition Period once we see Gary and Patty off at the airport, moving from Life Onboard to Life On Land. We’re not quite sure what to expect when it comes to the emotions of leaving See Level behind, but we are really excited about the many opportunities and possibilities ahead. once we see them off at the airport.
Final Random thoughts
Heading north about six weeks earlier than usual, meant a lot colder and more rapidly changing weather patterns – the old ‘March winds’ certainly seemed to hold true for us. I had hoped we’d see the beginnings of Spring, but we really saw nothing – the dormant foliage and frequently overcast skies made for a lot of flat scenery.
We were incredibly pleased with See Level’s performance on the trip up. Okay, there was that first day glitch with the fuse on the way to Fernandina (see Part 1). But our fuel efficiency has been better than ever and we seem to have picked up a knot or so at our high cruising RPM– Maybe it’s the hull job we did before we headed south, or maybe it’s just that Dave has those babies dialed in.
Dolphins are everywhere along the ICW, and we never tire of them. It’s always a little thrill to see them up ahead and then angling toward the boat, or riding our bow. If it’s a calm day, we can feel the boat lurch the tiniest bit as they come up between the hulls. But we realized this trip that while we see them swimming toward us, we frequently don’t know where they go. I’ll watch behind us and they never reappear. So they’re either staying under there for miles, or (gasp!) See Level eats dolphins!!!
While we enjoyed the familiarity of our favorite towns along the way, it also reinforced that it was time for something new for us, a new chapter. Most of these towns we never would have visited if we hadn’t done this boat thing. We have learned so much by seeing, meeting the people, and learning the history of so many places that we never would have known existed much less visited if we hadn’t done this boat thing. It has also made us aware of how many other places there are out with their stories, local characters, culture, and quirkiness – and we are ready to find other paths less traveled.
Pops’ Stats Corner*
- No of Days: 15
- Travel Days: 6
- Miles Traveled: 416.7 (362.4 nm)
Stay tuned for final See Level statistics in the next blog.
*Pops is the family’s affectionate name for Dave’s dad. He had a mind for sports statistics, earning him the nickname Numbers from the coaches of several Stillwater teams with whom he worked. This regular section of the blog is in his honor, because it’s the kind of thing he would love.
Great way to finish with cruising friends aboard! That and dolphins baby be beat. So many great memories this afloat phase in your life… And many more ahead in your next phase ashore